La REcyclerie

Iiiiii am so happy that this unique place exists! I have some of my classes as well as my stage (=internship) at Porte de Clignancourt, a mention of which usually doesn’t elicit sighs of jealousy from my friends. Ok, so it’s not Saint Germain. However, real people live and work in this area, and there are some hidden treasures next to the Macdo, KFC and un-classy stores selling imitation shoes and suitcases – beautiful music performed by conservatory/Sorbonne students for affordable prices at one of the campuses of Paris-Sorbonne University (this is where I study and work, shameless marketing plug alert), an antique market every weekend, stores like this with cheap vintage clothes just waiting to be dug up, and now, La REcyclerie!

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Upon entry of La REcyclerie

Where to begin? There are so many great things happening in this place. It is located right inside the old, abandoned train station that was part of la petite ceinture (basically the pre-Métro – great photos here). It is a restaurant, bar, cafe, event space, all with a no-waste, green ethos. And yes, I see the irony in my writing a blog post on my Macbook Air about an association whose philosophy is centered around low-tech things, but hey…the new generation gets their information online, so I’m providing it. They have frequent workshops – DIY eco-beauty products, and events where you can use their tools for free to give new life to broken furniture and things. I love the spirit behind that.

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Lamb brochettes

The inside is spacious and light-filled with plenty of seating options. The canteen-style food is based on regional themes that change weekly. The week I ate there was Moroccan week, and it was good! It’s definitely the best option for lunch in the quartier – I must say that I’ve had my fill of CROUS food.

I’ve also popped in just to study and write – the espresso is good and I love that they have sirop à l’eau for just 1€. And because the space is so big, there are no glares from the servers, and did I mention there is free wifi?

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La terrasse

Ok so I saved the best for last: you can also go outside to a long, narrow terrasse right next to the old tracks, which faces a community garden and is right under the chicken coop! It’s so nice to be in a space like this instead of directly on the street like most cafes.

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Looking back at the cafe from the terrasse

A friend had her birthday here a few weeks ago.  Though there were many people there that night, it didn’t feel packed like every other bar here.  There is so much space for everyone to spread out!  No sweating and shouting to be heard on a Friday night?!

La REcyclerie
2 rue Belliard
75018 Paris

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Barcelona / The dog is hot

Ottilia found this place online while searching for vegetarian places to eat. It was a great find!

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The menu – I got Piñadog

They offer several hot dog topping combinations, as well as either a vegetarian or a meat dog. I think there were gluten-free buns as well. I loved the topping choices – they were really crazy and delicious flavor combinations – but the best part was the ten or so bottles of sauce on the counter so you could add even more elements to create a flavor explosion! ☺

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Yup, those are fried potatoes

After I finished mine, I really, really wanted another, but somehow managed to resist. This was a good choice, since a few minutes later my stomach registered what I’d eaten and was definitely full.

The neighborhood was nice to visit, and as you might have read in my first post about Barcelona, we tried to go back the next day because we loved it so much, but it was closed. Cheap and delicious, as is apparently my motto. 😉

The dog is hot
Raval
C/ Joaquin Costa n°47

Food + Drink in Lisbon

Note to self: never listen to French people when discussing the cuisines of other countries. Everyone I spoke to before going to Portugal told me the food was bland, that it was a meat-centric cuisine and that they were incapable of cooking it nicely. This made me worried for Ottilia (vegetarian). But we were surprised and delighted by the number of vegetarian restaurants we saw while strolling around. Sometimes it felt like we were in San Francisco, not Portugal! Many places seemed to be very French-influenced or otherwise global.

While exploring one day, we took note of one place, Planeta Bio, that looked nicer, and returned there on our last night in Lisbon. At 8pm, we were the only diners! (Later on, we walked by and noticed that it was packed and there was now a wait. It’s such a late-night city!) There were only 4 options on the menu, and you chose small or big and 2 or 3 dishes. That’s it.

Planeta Bio

Planeta Bio

Between the two of us we tried everything! There was moussaka, leek lasagna, leek gratin, and seitan korma. It came with a delicious, fresh salad and a choice of couscous or brown rice. Our only complaint was that it was not spicy enough. I suppose we could have asked for some sauce or something…anyways, it’s so nice to get healthy food like this while on vacation!

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One day we did a walking tour to learn a little bit about Lisbon, and afterwards we strolled around the winding cobblestone streets in the older part of town. I saw a sign for 1€ wine so of course I had to stop. We ended up stopping for a small glass of the green wine typical of Portugal and fell in love with the charming, cave-like bar. The woman who worked there was so nice, and there were plenty of lovely local liqueurs, sardines, honey, etc. that would make great gifts.

food and drink in lisbon

Yummy things to buy

ceiling of Enoteca Chafariz do Vinho

The ceiling

Another unique experience was checking out Enoteca Chafariz do Vinho, a nice little wine bar in a converted well-head/fountain space. It was a calm and romantic space, with sort of slow service but very nice people working. I have so much respect for waiters who have to walk up and down stairs, especially with tall bottles and delicate glasses! Anyways, I just really wanted to try some porto and they had several different types. We also got a chocolate mousse to share – it was more of a pot de crème or pudding than a mousse, but whatever the name it was chocolate-y and rich. Come here for very nice wine and a relaxing, chill ambiance – if I went back I would love to do the tasting menu!

wine bar in Lisbon

Looking down from the upper level

Switching gears to a more simple dining experience – we went to the modern area near the airport on the recommendation of someone from our hostel. This area was updated for the Expo ’98 and it looks quite different from all the cobblestone streets and tiled buildings found elsewhere in Lisbon. We rode the Telecabine and had a fun time checking out the view of the water, and when we got hungry we found an unassuming little restaurant that ended up being a great find!

Good views in Lisbon

View of the modern side of Lisbon from the skycrawler

roast chicken at waterfront Lisbon restaurant

Rice, fries, and a little salad were included with more than one meal we had – a strange but oddly satisfying trend in Lisbon

Unlike most other places we’d been to, not much English was spoken but we got by with hand gestures and saying a mix of Spanish and French words. Ottilia’s omelette was 4€ and my roast chicken was fabulous. Nearby diners were eating lots of different fish dishes that looked good for someone who loves seafood. I would 100% eat there again! I can’t find the name of the restaurant, but from some sleuthing on Google maps I believe the address is 103 on the street parallel to Rua Bojador and the waterfront, right around the corner from the north entrance of the Telecabine.

yummy portuguese restaurant

Planeta Bio
R. Francisco Sanches 39,
1170-141 Lisboa, Portugal

O Cantinho da Rute
R. Sao Miguel, 79
Lisboa, Portugal

Enoteca Chafariz do Vinho
Praça da Alegria
1250-000 Lisboa, Portugal

Other Lisbon posts:

Hostel
Cheese shop

Raviolis Chinois Nord-est

OMG let me tell you about my new favorite restaurant – 5€ for 10 raviolis! But French people are weird and what they call raviolis are what I call potstickers, so don’t go here expecting any cheese or tomato sauce.

Raviolis!

Raviolis!

My friend Kate brought me here a few weeks ago and I went again last weekend after suggesting it to a friend for her birthday dinner. It’s a little hole-in-the-wall place right in Belleville. The menu is simple – tons of raviolis in different incarnations either grillé (fried) or à la vapeur (steamed), plus some soups and salads. I really enjoy the porc/poivron ravioli, and I became obsessed with their peanut salad! It’s just carrots, cucumbers, and peanuts in a really spicy dressing (hot chili oil and raw garlic are the only ingredients I could figure out but I’m sure there are others) – but there’s something about it that’s just so good! I’ve attempted a version of it at home because I was getting major cravings for it after eating there the first time and I can’t make it up to Belleville every day. Dice up some carrots, cucumbers with the skin on, radishes (my addition), and mix them with salted peanuts, some hot chili paste or oil, half a minced clove of garlic and a bit of vinegar for a zingy and crunchy salad!

Fun to eat with chopsticks

Fun to eat with chopsticks

This place is a must for anyone on a budget, or if you simply want to change it up from the old jambon-beurre on baguette. There is one non-meat version with tofu that my friend seemed to enjoy, so vegetarians won’t be completely left out. The service was friendly and quick both times I went. Oh, and if you realllly love these, you can purchase 100 frozen ones for 20€ – I’m so tempted but I think I’d eat them all in one go.

Raviolis Chinois Nord-est
11 rue Civiale
Paris 10e

Chez Gladines

Last weekend my friend Kat had a visitor from the US and it was her last night, so a group of us went out to dinner. We made reservations at Chez Gladines, a Basque restaurant popular with young (read: broke) people (but probably also with other ages too). I was excited because I rarely eat out and I’d heard great things. It didn’t disappoint!

We reserved a table but because we decided to have an apéro chez Kat beforehand we were a bit late. We ended up waiting two hours and we were seated at 11pm. If we hadn’t had an apéro (cheese and wine) and if there wasn’t a bar across the street (beer, and champagne to celebrate the friend leaving) I would be super pissed. But I had an alcohol-fueled breezy attitude – eating at midnight didn’t seem to matter at all. So if you aren’t planning to drink a ton, make sure you arrive before your reservation.

snails

snails hidden in butter

The others decided we needed to get escargots – something I’ve avoided tasting the entire 2.5 years I’ve lived here. I probably would have had to eat them my first Christmas here, but I was uninvited from the Christmas dinner with my French family so I avoided that one! It could have been the booze helping me, but I was pleasantly surprised at how much I liked them. We got the traditional preparation with parsley, garlic and butter, and another kind with Roquefort and cream. Both were great and the heavy butter and cream masked the slightly squishy texture. If you pay too much attention to the interaction of snail and tooth, you are in an experience not unlike the chewing of oysters – for me, pas agréable. The French guy sitting across from me missed my first taste, so he made me eat another one while he watched (weirdo), expecting me to be grossed out. I gladly ate a few more of the Roquefort ones – any excuse to eat blue cheese I will happily employ!

impressive

impressive

Our waiter was so nice despite having to navigate through a packed restaurant with millions of glasses, bottles, and huge plates. The food is good for the price – it’s not 5-star, but there are generous portions, fun and nice service (not found everywhere in Paris), and a great ambiance. I spent 20€ for a duck dish, the snails, and a few glasses wine and a coffee. So worth it!

My recovery time after a night out drinking is longer and longer each time…troubling. I’m getting old! :/

Chez Gladines
several locations but I was at the Butte aux Cailles one:
30 rue des 5 Diamants
75013 Paris

Tasska (spécialités libanaises)

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I NEED to share with the internet my love for this sandwich, found at a Lebanese restaurant in my coin.

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It is a wrap with freshly cooked chicken, hummus, and an amazing crunch, sour condiment. The combo of the flavorful chicken with the mystery Lebanese sauerkraut is so addictive that the packaged bread they serve it on is forgiveable. Clearly I need to do some research on these components so I can get to cooking, but I wanted to get this out in the world! My plan is to befriend the woman who works there and ask for recipes so I can make my own. The last time I went in, she recognized me so I have made some progress on this front!

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Until I succeed, I’ll be returning for my weekly €4.50 fix.

Tasska
195, rue Crimée
75019 Paris
01 40 34 74 48
Métro Crimée, Line 7