Food + Drink in Lisbon

Note to self: never listen to French people when discussing the cuisines of other countries. Everyone I spoke to before going to Portugal told me the food was bland, that it was a meat-centric cuisine and that they were incapable of cooking it nicely. This made me worried for Ottilia (vegetarian). But we were surprised and delighted by the number of vegetarian restaurants we saw while strolling around. Sometimes it felt like we were in San Francisco, not Portugal! Many places seemed to be very French-influenced or otherwise global.

While exploring one day, we took note of one place, Planeta Bio, that looked nicer, and returned there on our last night in Lisbon. At 8pm, we were the only diners! (Later on, we walked by and noticed that it was packed and there was now a wait. It’s such a late-night city!) There were only 4 options on the menu, and you chose small or big and 2 or 3 dishes. That’s it.

Planeta Bio

Planeta Bio

Between the two of us we tried everything! There was moussaka, leek lasagna, leek gratin, and seitan korma. It came with a delicious, fresh salad and a choice of couscous or brown rice. Our only complaint was that it was not spicy enough. I suppose we could have asked for some sauce or something…anyways, it’s so nice to get healthy food like this while on vacation!

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One day we did a walking tour to learn a little bit about Lisbon, and afterwards we strolled around the winding cobblestone streets in the older part of town. I saw a sign for 1€ wine so of course I had to stop. We ended up stopping for a small glass of the green wine typical of Portugal and fell in love with the charming, cave-like bar. The woman who worked there was so nice, and there were plenty of lovely local liqueurs, sardines, honey, etc. that would make great gifts.

food and drink in lisbon

Yummy things to buy

ceiling of Enoteca Chafariz do Vinho

The ceiling

Another unique experience was checking out Enoteca Chafariz do Vinho, a nice little wine bar in a converted well-head/fountain space. It was a calm and romantic space, with sort of slow service but very nice people working. I have so much respect for waiters who have to walk up and down stairs, especially with tall bottles and delicate glasses! Anyways, I just really wanted to try some porto and they had several different types. We also got a chocolate mousse to share – it was more of a pot de crème or pudding than a mousse, but whatever the name it was chocolate-y and rich. Come here for very nice wine and a relaxing, chill ambiance – if I went back I would love to do the tasting menu!

wine bar in Lisbon

Looking down from the upper level

Switching gears to a more simple dining experience – we went to the modern area near the airport on the recommendation of someone from our hostel. This area was updated for the Expo ’98 and it looks quite different from all the cobblestone streets and tiled buildings found elsewhere in Lisbon. We rode the Telecabine and had a fun time checking out the view of the water, and when we got hungry we found an unassuming little restaurant that ended up being a great find!

Good views in Lisbon

View of the modern side of Lisbon from the skycrawler

roast chicken at waterfront Lisbon restaurant

Rice, fries, and a little salad were included with more than one meal we had – a strange but oddly satisfying trend in Lisbon

Unlike most other places we’d been to, not much English was spoken but we got by with hand gestures and saying a mix of Spanish and French words. Ottilia’s omelette was 4€ and my roast chicken was fabulous. Nearby diners were eating lots of different fish dishes that looked good for someone who loves seafood. I would 100% eat there again! I can’t find the name of the restaurant, but from some sleuthing on Google maps I believe the address is 103 on the street parallel to Rua Bojador and the waterfront, right around the corner from the north entrance of the Telecabine.

yummy portuguese restaurant

Planeta Bio
R. Francisco Sanches 39,
1170-141 Lisboa, Portugal

O Cantinho da Rute
R. Sao Miguel, 79
Lisboa, Portugal

Enoteca Chafariz do Vinho
Praça da Alegria
1250-000 Lisboa, Portugal

Other Lisbon posts:

Hostel
Cheese shop

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Bread + white chocolate @ Boulangerie Saint-Honoré

Just wanted to pop in and share one of my favorite little snacks in the Porte de Clignancourt area.

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I remember being surprised and delighted when my first au pair mother, quite tall and thin, offered me a bit of baguette with a hefty piece of chocolate stuffed in the middle, after giving the same to her kids as a goûter. I didn’t become a major bread-lover until my move to Paris and I had previously thought to eat chocolate in only dessert situations. I loved this revolutionary concept that allowed me another time of day to get a chocolate fix!

Now, after almost 3 years here, I’ve realized that chocolate + bread is everywhere – chocolate bars have little drawings of baguettes on the wrappers, and I’ve seen plenty of other people indulge in the goûter.

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This boulangerie takes it one step further and bakes the chocolate into the bread! Most boulangeries will make “les suisses” or other pastries with chocolate in them, but I love these because it is real bread, chewy and a bit salty, and the chocolate gets a bit carmelized when exposed. So good! If you are headed to the Porte de Clignancourt antique market this would be the perfect stop.


Boulangerie Saint Honoré

80 bis bd Ornano – Paris 18e

Chocolate Tart

I have to be honest – I was never that crazy about chocolate before I moved to Paris. I know, what is WRONG with me?! I think it is because I wasn’t exposed to much chocolate other than Hershey bars and the garnish on Starbucks Frappucinos…not the best stuff. My dad loved to give my mom a box of Sees candy (soft-centers only!) for Valentine’s Day and Christmas, and that was the only time I couldn’t resist eating chocolate.

crumbs!

crumbs!

After entering a world of Angelina’s, aisles of chocolate bars at the grocery stores, chocolateries, and buckets of mousse, I will never look back. OMG CHOCOLATE IS SO GOOD. I am a convert.

crumbs + butter, even better

crumbs + butter, even better

A few weeks ago I met a girl at a party who brought an amazing chocolate tart. I didn’t know until the end of the night that she is the author of one of the blogs I read! Anyways, I’ve been craving that tart ever since and since I haven’t gotten around to asking her for a specific recipe I just made my own and adapted it to the weird-sized pan I have.

Hello there. By the way the weather in Paris is HORRENDOUS right now

Hello there. By the way the weather in Paris is HORRENDOUS right now

Last weekend I had a study sleepover with some classmates to study for our final exam. One of these girls is leaving Paris so this was sort of a goodbye see you later gift/fancy study snack in one. That’s how I roll… 🙂

glossy glossy

glossy glossy

Chocolate Tart
adapted from Ready for Dessert

The filling makes a great ice cream topper too!

Ingredients

-10 chocolate cookies of 3-inch diameter (I used random Leader Price ones), crushed (approx 2 cups of chocolate cookie crumbs)
-50 grams/half a stick of butter, melted and cooled
-3 tbsp of hazelnut or almond meal
-200 grams of bittersweet chocolate
-3/4 cup of cream or half-and-half
-1 egg and 1 egg yolk, whisked in a small bowl
-1/4 cup sugar (optional)

Instructions

Preheat oven to 350°F/180°C. Crush cookies and combine with butter. Press into a pan – mine was a 7×7 inch square pan and I would recommend finding a bigger pan than mine, since the ganache layer was very thick and intense. Sprinkle hazelnut or almond meal evenly across top. Bake 10 minutes. Let cool. Leave the oven on.
In a heatproof bowl set over simmering water or in 10 second intervals in the microwave, melt together the cream and chocolate until combined, smooth, and glossy. Remove from heat and let cool a little. While whisking chocolate, add in eggs slowly. Taste and if mixture isn’t sweet enough to your liking, add the sugar and whisk again.
Pour ganache into prepared tart crust. Bake for 15-20 minutes. Let cool.

Top view of tart

Top view of tart